My Dog Won’t Stop Pulling on the leash, What Do I Do?

Leash pulling is one of the most common complaints trainers hear from clients. Depending on how severe your dog’s pulling is, it can even lead to serious injuries. We’ve worked with clients who have suffered broken bones, fractured shoulders, and other painful accidents simply because their dog lacked proper leash manners. When it comes to leash pulling, the root issue is usually a breakdown in communication between you and your dog. If your dog doesn’t clearly understand what is expected of them, they’ll naturally default to what feels rewarding, and for many dogs, that means forging ahead. To communicate effectively, it’s important to use the right tools. While harnesses, gentle leaders, and other management tools may reduce pulling temporarily, they often make it harder for dogs to clearly understand what is being communicated during the walk. After years of training hundreds of dogs with this issue, the tool we most often recommend is a properly fitted flat collar paired with a standard leash — not a bungee leash.

Dogs need clear and concise communication to understand exactly what is expected of them. A flat collar allows for quick, simple feedback that helps your dog process information more clearly. When teaching leash manners, we often use what are called “leash pops.” These are small, quick corrections that communicate to your dog to slow down and return to position. These should never be harsh or forceful. The goal is not punishment, but simply creating a clear signal your dog can understand.

One of the biggest reasons dogs pull is something called opposition reflex. This is your dog’s natural instinct to push or pull against pressure. If you pull one direction, many dogs will instinctively push or pull the opposite way. This reflex is especially strong in breeds designed to work through resistance, such as bully breeds, huskies, malinois, and other working dogs bred for pulling carts, sleds, or powering through adversity. These dogs are often naturally harder to teach loose-leash walking. That doesn’t mean it’s impossible, but it does mean more consistency and clearer communication are required.

Kevin Wearing a Slip lead.

The flat collar is one of my favorite tools for teaching leash skills because it’s simple, familiar, and effective. It should fit snugly enough that you can comfortably slide two fingers underneath it. This tool allows handlers to practice better timing and clearer communication without creating excessive choking or constant pressure. I personally love teaching on the flat collar because it’s responsive and helps owners develop better leash-handling skills.

Slip leads can also be effective when used correctly. I’ll often use one if I’m told a dog can easily slip out of collars or tends to throw on the brakes and back out of equipment. Placement matters with this tool. It should sit high on the neck, just behind the ears, and never low across the trachea. Lighter, subtle leash pops work best. When used improperly, slip leads can create discomfort and confusion, so handling matters.

Prong collars can absolutely be effective in skilled hands, but I generally don’t recommend owners start there. Many handlers unintentionally apply constant pressure or over-correct because they haven’t yet mastered timing and communication. Until you’ve built solid leash-handling skills on a flat collar, jumping straight to a prong often creates more problems than solutions. It’s a powerful tool and should be used thoughtfully and with education.

Now, this is where trainers tend to disagree, and that’s okay. These are simply my professional opinions based on years of experience. Harnesses are brilliantly marketed, and I do love a good harness for certain situations. However, as a teaching tool for leash manners, I generally discourage starting there. Harnesses often make clear communication difficult. Instead of offering direct feedback, they frequently activate opposition reflex by placing pressure across the chest, encouraging dogs to lean into that resistance and pull harder. Dogs tend to carry tension in their chest and shoulders, just like we do, so adding pressure there can amplify that resistance.

A lot of people ask about front-clip “no-pull” harnesses. Yes, they can reduce pulling for some dogs, but often they’re simply redirecting body mechanics by turning the dog sideways rather than truly teaching leash understanding. It may stop pulling in the moment, but that doesn’t necessarily mean the dog is learning what’s expected. I prefer teaching leash skills first, then introducing a preferred harness once the dog fully understands how to walk politely. If harnesses work beautifully for your dog, that’s fantastic. This advice is for people who feel like they’ve hit a wall with them.

Face halters and gentle leaders can absolutely stop pulling because they place pressure on highly sensitive facial nerves. That sensitivity is exactly why I caution owners when using them. You should never “pop” a dog on this type of tool. If your dog suddenly lunges toward another dog, spots a squirrel, or surges forward unexpectedly, the pressure on the face and neck can create discomfort and negative associations over time. If it works for your lifestyle and your dog tolerates it well, that’s your choice, but it’s important to understand that management is not always the same thing as teaching.

At the end of the day, every tool has successes and failures. Every dog is different, and every handler learns differently. I didn’t mention every tool available, only the ones I encounter most often. No matter what training style, approach, or equipment you use, the most important thing is to stay educated and keep an open mind. Be willing to learn both new and old techniques, and find what works best for you and your dog. The best tool is the one that helps you clearly communicate in a way that builds trust, understanding, and long-term success. Because leash walking isn’t about control — it’s about connection.

Thank you for Reading - The K9s Virtue Team